City of Rocks, Idaho - May 22-25, 2009

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Introduction note: In an ongoing effort to prepare for climbing The Grand (Grand Teton Mtn) in August, we all all went for a camping/climbing weekend at City of Rocks in south-central Idaho. Christine and I (Joe) car-camped with Lorna, Marco, & Kirk. Marc & Stephanie car-camped nearby. City of Rocks is a climbing mecca of granite rocks, columns, & spires that attracts climbers from all over the country. The weather played with a us a little, but we still got in some good climbs.

Mystery Bolter was our first target. It is a long friction pitch rated at 5.9 on the back side of Bumblie Rock. Marco did a great job of leading it, but Kirk & I cheated our way up a bit by staying in the comfort of the left crack for as long as we could. Lorna easily made an elegant climb of it.

Click on thumbprint photos to see them enlarged.

Mystery Bolter (5.9):  
Joe.
Kirk.
       
Kirk.
     
Lorna.

 

Too Much Fun was our second climb. This 5.8 vertical climb on the face of Bumblie Rock looked like a lot of fun. Marco led it fairly easily. I got a little less than half-way up before it started to rain, forcing me down off the slippery holds. I really would have liked to have finished this one. Maybe next time.

Too Much Fun (5.8):    
Marco with Kirk belaying.
Marco . . .
. . . near the top . . .
. . . and coming down.
Joe.

 

Get Over It is an 11a route in Cannibal Corridor that Marc Newsom successfully led. I did not even consider trying it. It has a very challenging overhang at the very beginning. It was fun to watch the veteran climbers in our group struggle with this obstacle. Marc ended up being the only one that got it clean. I wish I had gotten photos of him, but I was so focused on watching him that I forgot to get my camera out.

 
Get Over It (11a):      
Marco Cortes working past the overhang.
Stephanie Newsom clearing the overhang, and then finishing the route.

 

Delay of Game was my final climb of the weekend. It was a long exposed 5.8 on the west face of Parking Lot Rock. It was in the morning shade, which made it a chilly climb. Marco led it, then Kirk and I each enjoyed completing the route on top rope with Marco belaying from the top.

Delay of Game (5.8):    
Marco leading Delay of Game.
Kirk being belayed by Marco from above.
Joe scrambling up . . .
. . . to the top. . .
. . . and back down.
From a distance.

 

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If you have any questions about this website or want to contact Christine or Joe for any reason, please email us at christine@lustik.com or joe@lustik.com.